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A postcard from Oaxaca with Emily Nathan

2 MINUTES

Greetings! Join Emily Nathan on a journey through Oaxaca's vivid textile markets, ancient city remains, and Hierve el Agua - a breathtaking set of petrified mineral waterfalls and natural infinity pools perched on the edge of a cliff.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY: EMILY NATHAN

"The famous parades through town (called calendas) are fascinating and you will always feel lucky if you get to take part in or witness one."

- EMILY NATHAN

 

What location did you visit?

Oaxaca town, el Tule an area outside the center, the weaving town Teotitlàn del Valle, Hierve el agua and the incredible ruins of Monte Alban.

Where did you stay?

I stayed in a rental house with friends, at the beautiful residency at Texere and a boutique hotel right in the center, Grana BNB.

Three words to describe your journey?

Colorful, casual, delicious.


Discoveries or hidden gems along the way?

Caitlin Garcia and her team have created a special space in Tule at Texere. Caitlin also took me out to meet some potters and knows so many other local artisans to connect with. Her shop textures, colors and details made me so happy. Tule has a famous gigantic tree (one of the largest of its kind on earth) in the center of the neighborhood that is epic and beside a sweet church.

If the location were a color? A sound? A taste?

Fuscia and yellow. A parade. Ancient corn.

What left a lasting impression?

Grana was a beautiful property right in the absolute heart of town. I loved my room and all the handmade local artisans touches. The breakfast room is divine and photo
 heaven, as is the roof. The famous parades through town (called calendas) are fascinating and you will always feel lucky if you get to take part in or witness one. Hierve el Agua the natural stone springs is as beautiful as all the images make it appear. The ruins at Monte Alban were spectacular. Almost as incredible as seeing Machu Picchu, but dramatically easier to get to, and at the end of the day almost no one is there. I had the massive temple complex to myself almost because my cab driver knew the gate guy I think. Criollo is a famous restaurant in town I visited with friends and it was very tasty and unique while feeling unpretentious.

A local must-see or must-do?

You should not miss Hierve el agua or Monte Alban.


The best thing you ate and where to find it?

There is a lot of good food in Oaxaca! From street vendors to tiny shops making zucchini flower quesadillas, to Michelin meals. One dinner we loved was on the rooftop patio overlooking the main church at Casa Oaxaca.

A local market that overtook your suitcase?

Mercado Sánchez Pascuas has everything including a bag stall with the colorful woven plastic bags that are all great patterns and shades and quite a deal! I
 took a ton home.

Go-to spots to take in arts and culture?

Loved the photographic center of Manuel Alvaro Bravo.

Your favorite scenic route or way to get around?

Walking! Oaxaca is a super walkable town. And a driver. A friend shared a driver recommendation and we would just call him up whenever we needed a ride. If he wasn’t available he would send a friend. No car needed.

What item(s) do you always pack?

Phone, cameras, always a swimsuit. I will find a way to swim.

Do you have any exploration rituals?

Hmm. I’m pretty open to all the things.

Best way to discover somewhere new?

Leave your house! Talk to locals. Be kind and respectful and curious. 

Travel tips or secrets to share?

Bring backup chargers, cables and things like that. They are much harder to find than you would think.

Where to next?

Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula!

Calling all explorers

Tag @paravel to share your journeys with the Paravel community. Follow @ernathan to join Emily’s journey.